Restaurants
20 March 2011
Sometimes I wished I lived in Melbourne. Only for the markets and the restaurants, as the weather is always strange, and getting about, once you’re out of the city centre, seems like mindless driving through endless brick and tile flat suburbs where eucalyptus trees provide the only scenery.
But the culinary scene is hot. There’s always a new place opening, and the huge and diverse population means that the flavours of ethnically diverse cuisines are on offer whatever your budget. Here are a few new and old recommendations.
PM24, 24 Russell St, City T613 9207 7424
Phillippe Mouchel, who originally came to Australia to cook Paul Bocuse’s food, presents stylishly modern Aussie food that’s seriously rooted in French classic cooking. His use of contemporary and fasionable ingredients such as yuzu, swimmer crab, organic chook and ocean trout is amazing.
Momo, 23 Collins St, City T613 9659 0660
The ultimate Middle-eastern food served up by Greg Malouf in a seriously sophisticated dining room. Expect to be awakened by stunning use of spice and order anything with quail, lamb or fish. Desserts not to be missed.
Cutler & Co, 55 Gertrude St, Fitzroy T613 9419 4888
Superbly elegant dressing of an old industrial workshop in trendy Fitzroy sets the scene for Andrew McConnell’s breathtakingly tasty and modish food. I loved my portion of sweet suckling pig, the edgy salads and veggies, and perfect fish.
Cumulus, 45 Flinders Lane, City T613 9650 1445
Not quite a restaurant, but more than a café, this tiny inner city place is a haven for amazing comfort food at breakfast, lunch and dinner. Don’t miss the fresh oysters and look out for soups. The velvety, comforting chicken soup with ginger rescued and restored my health. Another gem from Andrew McConnell.
Movida Aqui, 500 Bourke St, City T613 9663 3038
It’s always been obligatory to squeeze yourself into Movida on a trip to Melbourne for Frank Camora’s amazing Spanish tapas. But now you can eat them, and bigger dishes in a spacy, light filled environment in the third Movida to open. There’s a charcoal fuelled fire-pit (whole roasted fish), perfect paella and everything Spanish you ever wished for.
Merchant, 495 Collins St, City T613 9614 7688
A major production from one of the darlings of the Melbourne scene, Guy Grossi. In a tribute to his mother’s city, Venezia, the décor is colourful and modern and there’s an enormous menu of almost casual food that you will want to return and return to. Polenta four ways, tons of pasta, and heaps of tiny and more substantial treats to indulge in.
The Atlantic, Crown Casino Complex, South Riverbank, T613 9698 8888
So often you’re told “you should have been here yesterday” but for me I left Melbourne one day too early for the opening of The Atlantic. So all I can say it is going to be my first stop next visit, for Donovan Cooke’s (he of the famed Est Est ten years back) fishy menu in the drop dead designer interior which I did get a sneaky peek at. Full of promise!
PIC: The Atlantic interior
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3 February 2011
There’s been a glaring gap in the market for exclusive, chic Asian and ethnic eateries in Auckland. So I was given a clue when trying to book at the new Japanese restaurant, Cocoro, when told I had to have the degustation menu. “Any allergies or dislikes?” (One of us has a garlic allergy and yes, I know that is tragic, and the other prefers to eat fish when dining out.)
This recent arrival in the backstreets of Ponsonby reeks of the sophistication that’s been missing on the local scene. In a low slung, perfectly--crafted space decked out with sleek timber and fashionable concrete, staff are friendly and helpful, and most importantly the food is almost breathtakingly put together for a serious food experience. Our menus were waiting. “Omotenashi” – a six course degustation dinner may well be the most worthy $80 I will spend this year on a single dinner.
Chef Makoto Tokuyama visits the fish market everyday to find the fish for his menu. Octopus for the starter (almost crunchy yet incredibly tender) was followed by a sashimi and sushi course that took that concept to a new high, both literally and figuratively. This high carved box appeared that looked like a miniature wardrobe. Hinged, it opened up to reveal three shelves, each with a delicate plate of perfect fish. A freshly shucked Southern Glory oyster in its shell with seaweed and cucumber; fat, savoury and adorned with ponzu vinegar lay on the top shelf. Akaroa salmon sashimi sat on the second shelf, and at the bottom, some beautiful kingfish nigiri sushi. Heaven in a box.
The subsequent parade of courses continued to delight, with the highlight being a meltingly tender gratin of scallop, prawn and oyster alongside the most wonderful chawanmushi I have ever had…silky smooth savoury custard that had a tiny queen scallop hidden within. Our “allergies and dislikes” had been thoughtfully taken care of. Agadashi tofu for me while he had tofu with tiny diced vegetables that included the dreaded garlic, and flawlessly cooked lamb (“no more than 68° as that’s the point the protein shrinks” we were told) for me while he had glacé Antarctic toothfish, a dish that harked back to the chef’s childhood when sweetness was proffered with savoury food.
Ignore the very well chosen wine menu in favour of sake here, as there’s a full range of amazing flavours and textures to dive into, and not surprisingly to match this wonderful food. But my heart went out to the diners around us who hadn’t booked, and thus could not try the degustation dinner. Their menus and plates sported dishes like sushi, tempura prawns, teriyaki chicken and other predictable suspects. I’m sure they were all beautifully cooked and really tasty, but their envy of our food was very evident.
56 Brown St, Ponsonby ph 09 360 0927 Open Tuesday to Saturday
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5 July 2010
There’s lots to love about Ortega. The rooms are eclectically decorated with a diverse assortment of both collectable and forgettable art, the walls a calming shade of pale sea green, and there’s a vibrancy that could only be Wellington where casual youths in their sneakers and sweaters sit alongside the prescriptive suits of the capital. The youthful staff managed by the effervescent Anna Limacher and her partner Dave McDonald are enthusiastic and on the ball. The wine list with more than 80 choices ranges through everything you’d wish for and the kitchen, with veteran of the site Mark Limacher and his old head chef Peter Collins, from Bastille days (formerly at this address), managing to keep the fishy treats flowing with changes to the menu daily according to the market.
I have been twice and felt well fed and looked after on both occasions. We ate lovely sautéed squid with Lisbon pork sausage and sweet potato, although I felt the chipotle oil dominated a tad too much. Maybe squid does need spicing up? The hot and sour coconut broth hits all the right notes on a chilly Wellywood evening when the notorious Wellyweather is showing its bad side. I was looking for the sauté of scampi tails with celeriac and butter sauce I loved on my first visit, but it had changed into a goat cheese cannelloni with fennel and scampi tails with lemon oil on my second dinner which did not quite reach the same heights. The snapper with a dense ratatouille and crayfish oil was a triumph and so was pan roasted gurnard with beetroot and chickpea salad with green coconut chutney. The small tight dessert menu is completely outshone by a stunning properly ripened and cared for cheese selection to finish the dining experience well.
Subtle spices, intriguing combinations and a definite casualness in the food and presentation that I love. But I was left pondering afterwards that my personal expectations of a ‘fish shack’ were not quite met. I adore fresh shellfish and I had in my mind there would be an abundance of clams, tuatuas, pipis, paua etc but oysters and mussels were all that were offered. And no fish and chips! In deference to the clientele no doubt, favourites from Bastille have crept onto the menu. Duck Liver Pate and fillet steak with Café de Paris butter and chips. Vegetarian restaurants never offer meat to the carnivores so why does a fish restaurant have meat?
16 Marjoribanks St, Wellington ph 04 382 9559
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5 May 2010
I have been in Sydney for a week and here’s my list of places where you’re sure to be happy.
Buon Ricordo, 108 Boundary Rd, Paddington ph 9360 6729 Traditional Italian fare, beautifully presented in cosy surroundings. A place to go to be cosseted and cooed over, with a splendid wine list and totally delicious plates made with the finest Italian ingredients. Best dishes; Entrée of potato layered with olives, marinated fish, fennel and sesame on a salad of frisée and orange segments (pic) , and anything with pasta.
Bistro Moncur, 116 Queen St, Woollahra ph 9363 2519 Damien Pignolet may be one of France’s best exports to Australia. His modern French bistro in the Woollahra pub continues to the first choice of locals who feast on superb house made charcuterie, wonderful light meals or hearty true country style cooking, presented with flair and style. Good wine selection.
Fratelli Paradiso, 12 Challis Ave, Potts Point, ph 9357 1744 A visit to Sydney would be pointless without lunch or dinner at FP. Remains one of the hottest places in town, with a daily blackboard menu of real Italian treats. Love the calamari, the bresaola, the farfalle ragu, the bistecca (thin wagyu) and everything else on the menu. And an amazing wine list including organic wines from the clever Occhipinti sisters in Sicily. Casual, wonderful and no bookings.
La Scala on Jersey, cnr Jersey Rd and Melrose Lane, Woollahra ph 9357 0815 Upstairs in a corner pub on Oxford St, this place already bustles with the smart set after four weeks. Light, airy and fun with a great cocktail bar. Chef Darren Simpson’s fabulous modern food is approachable and beautifully put together. Roast chicken with organic veges, the best salad I have had in years and a well selected wine list.
Toko and Toko Noma, 490 Crown St, Surry Hills, ph 9357 6100
Very trendy Japanese restaurant in the heart of the fashionable eating district of Sydney. Toko simply heaves with locals and those who want freshly made sushi and sashimi, robata grilled meats and other small Japanese dishes. Very noisy and no bookings at Toko, but the more sombre lounge Toko Noma, next door, is more spacious, has amazing cocktails and serves the same food as Toko, from the same kitchen. And you can book tables there.
- BEST VIETNAMESE OUTSIDE VIETNAM
Red Lantern, 545 Crown St, Surry Hills ph 09698 4355
Once you get past the surly woman manning the front desk, you’ll be heaven with the light delicious fresh salads, the greats election of slightly spicy vegetarian dishes and the authentic Vietnamese specialties served in this small but atmospheric restaurant. Don’t miss the wonderful quail salad, the fresh rice paper rolls, the steamed fresh fish parcels with a smear of yellow curry and the best banana fritters imaginable. And the tight but perfectly formed wine list totally suits the food. Superb service from the wine-enthusiast waiter.
AND IN A PLACE OF THEIR OWN
Berowra Waters Inn, and Quay. See separate reviews.
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4 May 2010
A restaurant to visit before you die!
Berowra Waters Inn became world famous in the nineties under the ownership of Gay and Tony Bilson and then continued as Gay ran front of house with Janni Kyritsis in the kitchen. Now, with owner Dietmar Sawyere’s meticulously produced food and the comfortable refurbishment retaining the spirit of Glenn Murcutt’s archetypal Aussie architecture, Berowra is again “worth the detour” of the 90 minute drive from the Sydney Harbour Bridge or the faster seaplane trip from Rose Bay.
The menu, designed as a series of tasting dishes is offered at four courses for $130, 5 for $145.00, 6 for $160 with matched wines for $180, $200 or $225 respectively. And this is generous, as little supplementary gifts from the kitchen appear unannounced; a crisp wafer topped with cured salmon, a tiny cup of creamy sweet corn soup and a playful version of pina colada made with pineapple jelly and a thick foamy coconut.
Three of us lunching gave the seasonal menu a great test starting with the local oyster beignets accompanied with an airy chilled vichyssoise with oscietra and salmon caviars. The most perfect dish ever which I know will be my death row requested meal! We also loved fresh scallop carpaccio constructed with mudcrab, celeriac, wild rocket and pea puree, ocean trout topped with tender calamari and cauliflower, tasty goat’s cheese-filled pasta parcels with cabbage and a truffled velouté, Murray cod with ‘minestroni’, a deliciously rich ballotine of quail stuffed with foie gras and served with yabbies, and comforting pheasant breast with confit leg with parsnip, Brussels sprouts and chestnuts.
The wine list is exemplary and our matches all well chosen. Some great bottles were offered from both legendary Australian producers and from around the world. We loved the attention from the competent staff and we loved that view. The Hawkesbury River provides an ever changing scene, including unplanned entertainment when one of the local identities known as the ‘mayor of the river’ ran out of gas for his little dinghy right in front of the restaurant. Perfect. Just as this was the perfect restaurant for a long Sunday lunch.
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30 April 2010
With only a few days and all those amazing food carts to try, I still managed to get to a few restaurants. Here are my picks.
Castagna: The current hot ticket in town for cutting edge food. Simple surroundings and yet Matthew Lightner’s almost jewel-like seasonal food is delicious, thoughtful and at times almost intellectually challenging. The dessert, which was a frozen rhubarb crumble had layers and layers of taste and texture. See pic above.
Nostrana: Cathy Whims is Portland’s queen of the kitchen. Passionate about fresh farm produce and a champion of the Slow Food movement, she cooks simple Italian fare with unusual and forages ingredients. Nominated as Best Chef in the Pacific NW, her food is a must if you only eat one meal in Portland.
Le Pigeon: Sit at the bar or eat at large communal tables in this comfortable and cosy neighbourhood restaurant on the east side. Young friendly staff. Where else would you see the chef so confident he was wearing the tee shirt from another restaurant? Best dishes were the carpaccio of duck, pork trotters, a terrific burger and the frozen foie gras éclairs.
Metrovino: In the Pearl district, a sharp wine bar with superb antipasto prepared to order. The asparagus soup with fresh crab cakes was so rich and delicious I needed no main course. Superb selection of local Oregon and international wines including Dog Point sav blanc.
Heathman Hotel: This historic hotel on Broadway in the centre of town is almost central to the Portland food scene. At lunch over the 14 years I have visited Portland there have always been crowds enjoying themselves here, everyday. Philippe Boulot has reigned over the kitchen forever and still produces fresh interesting modern fare. Don’t miss having a late night drink in the lounge; there’s live music of the easy listening style and a roaring fire.
Nel Centro: Set in the courtyard of a very cool, modern hotel, this is a good choice when you feel the need for something fresh, contemporary and interesting, or some good comfort food. Great salads and sandwiches at lunchtime.
Andina: Another great choice in the Pearl district for Peruvian specialties. It’s large, rowdy with a great selection of fresh spicy food, and of course the ubiquitous Pisco Sour that is a must with this cuisine.
And if you're in the Willamette Valley do not miss Nick's Diner for some amazing Italian food. His pork stuffed capelletti in brodo and his house-made salume were heaven. And so was the Rose of Pinot from Eyrie Vineyards that accompanied my meal.
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20 April 2010
If you only have two days here are some treats. Piemontese (Italian), Moroccan, Peruvian and fresh seasonal modern American cooking. Take your choice.
Barbacco Eno Trattoria
220 California St, SF ph 415 955 1980
Sharp cooking from the Piedmont region of Italy inspires the kitchen here. Perfect for lunch, for an array of dishes can be shared. We loved the beet salad with tangy citrus notes that really uplifted the leaves, (see spring salad above) a tasting plate of intriguing spreads to top grilled bruschetta, and the Calabrian nduja, a spreadable salami that seems to be the new hot item on any modern Italian menu in the Bay. A good selection of Italian wines by the glass too. The big brother restaurant Perbacco is next door for more sophisticated serious dining.
Aziza
5800 Geary Blvd SF ph 415 752 2222
It’s worth the long cab ride to indulge in the modern take on Moroccan cuisine at cosy, almost romantic, Aziza. Beautifully spiced, flavoursome dishes and an authentic b’stilla, which manages somehow to combine sweet and savoury in every bite of this flaky chicken pie. But the real treat is the cocktail list. My fennel pollen, seeds, lime and vodka may sound a little unusual but it was light, refreshing and truly wonderful. A highly original neighbourhood restaurant.
La Mar.
Pier 1.5, The Embacadero, SF, ph 415 397 8880
Begin with a Pisco Sour at the bar of this large waterfront Peruvian restaurant and then into the large airy dining room to order the tasting plate of cebiche, (fresh raw fish in tangy sauces) followed by the taster of causas (lovely combinations of toppings on Peruvian potatoes - see photo above.) Then dare to order a tasting plate of empandas (little pies with different spicy fillings). The Pisco Sour is so good we had to have a third one back at the bar before we left!
Flour + Water
2401 Harrison St, SF ph 415 826 7000
Luckily the queue and the hour long wait did not put us off, for the spring fresh menu here in this small neighbourhood place was stunning. Three of us shared three antipasti salads made with the freshest of spring produce; and there was no doubt it has all been picked on the day. Think ramps, asparagus, spring radish and carrot, sea beans and green almonds.
Then a superb pizza topped with young leek, torpedo onions, green garlic pesto, upland cress and taleggio, and to finish roasted pork leg, belly and loin with parsley root puree, asparagus and baby carrots. Heaven! Don’t miss it.
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10 April 2010
463A Manukau Rd, Epsom, Auckland ph 09 630 355 Takeaways available too.
It's not often I am alone in Auckland on a Saturday, and it's not often I get to share lunch with my friend William. But today I was truly spoiled as we met up for a glorious feast at KK's in Epsom. As usual there was a queue on the pavement but the turnover is in the cafe is fast, no-one lingers and we were given one of the mere eight or so tables within ten minutes .
KK's is one of those hole-in-the-wall places where there's not much room, the kitchen with its army of busy workers is on full view to the diners. I have only been to Malaysia twice, but I am willing to bet the food lovingly made in KK's kitchen is among the most authentic that can be found in town. We had three dishes (I would have loved to have more dishes: the spicy chicken rendang, the flaky rotis and the tasty nasi lemak too, but this was lunch and we were only two).
The tiny chicken satay was a real taste teaser with its nutty, spicy sauce. Then a richly braised pork dish on noodles with bok choy and hard boiled eggs arrived, followed by Wat Tan Hor. (Pictured above, photo by William Chen) This has to be the most divine lunch dish I have eaten this year. Wat Tan Hor proved to be a full plate of thick rice noodles that had been tossed in a red hot wok so they were smoky, combined with sliced chicken, fish balls and seafood and then bathed in an 'egg gravy'. It was pure comfort food of the tastiest sort, that I'll be returning for. Often!
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5 April 2010
190 Ferry Rd, Phillipstown Christchurch ph 03 371 9333 www.restaurantschwass.com
I am constantly asked where to dine around New Zealand and for me the one restaurant I would recommend above all others in Christchurch is Jonny Schwass's Restaurant Schwass. (Although I do love Saggio di Vino and The Bodhi Tree).
Johnny Schwass is a passionate chef who truly, truly cares about every single thing he puts on your plate. He has a garden where amazing vegetables and herbs are grown, and it's rumoured he may even plant a garden on the restaurant roof. He takes infinite care in sourcing the very best meat, fish and poultry for his diners.
We ate some superbly stylish simple food that was delicious in the best sense of the word. I started with a mushroom risotto (pictured) that would rate a perfect 10. Rich, a slightly creamy texture with more mushroom than rice, it was so good I refused to share with my dining companions! It was topped with a small wild mushroom salad.
The menu is bold; lots of lovely offal dishes including lamb's liver and bacon, cured tongue, and pork belly. The organic chicken was superb and sparkling fresh fish melted in the mouth. Here's a chef with plenty of imagination who manages to produce lovely modern food where the well sourced ingredients speak for themselves.
The restaurant itself is sober and moody, but we were impressed when Earth Hour came and all the lights were turned out and we ate by candlelight. We also loved the wine list that has been as thoughtfully put together as the menu. There was a full page dedicated to Pyramid Valley, so we drank their Pinot Blanc.. perfect for the perfect food.
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2 April 2010
376 Karangahape Rd, Newton, Auckland ph 09 300 7582
It’s been a long time since any restaurateur captured the magic that was created in the early days of the Metropole in Parnell. Back in the nineties the late Rick Lewisham, and then Simon Woolley got it right with a fabulous blend of lively bar and interesting affordable food.
Now Renee Coulter has set up exactly that in K Rd. A long lively bar dominates the space, where crowds can enjoy some eclectic wines and cocktails while waiting for a table. Coco’s Cantina is fun, it’s jumping, crowded with stars and pretenders, and there’s no show of seeing your grandmother there as she wouldn’t hear a word in all that din. Plenty of tables outside for the smokers too.
The food is hearty and tasty, but not refined or styled. I predict the new trend in food will be like this: the ‘style’ is created in the flavours and tastes, rather than titsy over-tortured disparate elements that turn up on the plate in the so called better restaurants. Hallelujah for that.
Go with a couple of friends, share some of the delicious starters like the tender squid, the amazing arancini (risotto balls) or the best bruschetta in town (ours starred with goat cheese, beetroot with a hint of orange.) And then tuck in to the hearty mains that may be some of the best value food around. The veal cotoletta (but not on the bone) was juicy and succulent, grilled chicken is a constant star, and the fish came generously piled on a heap of vegetable accompaniments.
Leave room for the truly yummy puddings.
Open from 5pm Tues to Sat.
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