3 February 2011

COCORO

There’s been a glaring gap in the market for exclusive, chic Asian and ethnic eateries in Auckland. So I was given a clue when trying to book at the new Japanese restaurant, Cocoro, when told I had to have the degustation menu. “Any allergies or dislikes?” (One of us has a garlic allergy and yes, I know that is tragic, and the other prefers to eat fish when dining out.)

This recent arrival in the backstreets of Ponsonby reeks of the sophistication that’s been missing on the local scene. In a low slung, perfectly--crafted space decked out with sleek timber and fashionable concrete, staff are friendly and helpful, and most importantly the food is almost breathtakingly put together for a serious food experience. Our menus were waiting. “Omotenashi” – a six course degustation dinner may well be the most worthy $80 I will spend this year on a single dinner.

Chef Makoto Tokuyama visits the fish market everyday to find the fish for his menu. Octopus for the starter (almost crunchy yet incredibly tender) was followed by a sashimi and sushi course that took that concept to a new high, both literally and figuratively. This high carved box appeared that looked like a miniature wardrobe. Hinged, it opened up to reveal three shelves, each with a delicate plate of perfect fish. A freshly shucked Southern Glory oyster in its shell with seaweed and cucumber; fat, savoury and adorned with ponzu vinegar lay on the top shelf. Akaroa salmon sashimi sat on the second shelf, and at the bottom, some beautiful kingfish nigiri sushi. Heaven in a box.

The subsequent parade of courses continued to delight, with the highlight being a meltingly tender gratin of scallop, prawn and oyster alongside the most wonderful chawanmushi I have ever had…silky smooth savoury custard that had a tiny queen scallop hidden within. Our “allergies and dislikes” had been thoughtfully taken care of. Agadashi tofu for me while he had tofu with tiny diced vegetables that included the dreaded garlic, and flawlessly cooked lamb (“no more than 68° as that’s the point the protein shrinks” we were told) for me while he had glacé Antarctic toothfish, a dish that harked back to the chef’s childhood when sweetness was proffered with savoury food.

Ignore the very well chosen wine menu in favour of sake here, as there’s a full range of amazing flavours and textures to dive into, and not surprisingly to match this wonderful food. But my heart went out to the diners around us who hadn’t booked, and thus could not try the degustation dinner. Their menus and plates sported dishes like sushi, tempura prawns, teriyaki chicken and other predictable suspects. I’m sure they were all beautifully cooked and really tasty, but their envy of our food was very evident.

56 Brown St, Ponsonby ph 09 360 0927 Open Tuesday to Saturday