12 October 2013

FEDERAL DELICATESSEN

I did not expect to find poutine here in Auckland. But I did, I ate it and the verdict: Delicious! I’ve been to Quebec, the home of poutine, where the dish is practically eaten daily by the locals. It is a specialty of the French Canadians (Acadian) and is slang for a mushy mess. They also claim it’s a heart attack in a bowl. But I certainly didn’t see any in Montreal as tasty as the bowl we ate for brunch at Al Brown’s new gig on Federal St, Sky City.

Federal Delicatessen is a winner. After the success of Depot, Al’s quintessential kiwi diner next door, any new venture of his making was going to be superb. And it is. It has Al’s big personality all over it, helped by head chef Kyle Street and master of hospitality Joe Williams.

We had Saturday brunch and a line had formed at 11am on a freezing windy Spring morning. But once inside and settled at the counter I couldn’t have felt more happy. The sodas are masterful; creaming soda just the ticket for brunch, and to accompany the Montreal/New York inspired fit out, décor, and menu. But it was the attention to detail that realty impressed. Right down to brewed, rather than espresso coffee, and those cute uniforms you see in diners in the movies.

We shared house cured lox on crisp potato latkes with crème fraiche and dill. Next a shared portion of fabulous toasted Reuben sandwich, complete with sauerkraut, heavy with mustard and the essential ingredient, generous slices of amazingly tender pastrami thickly cut, and a side bowl of delicate cole slaw and some briny pickles. Then of course that bowl of poutine; crisp hand-cut fries smothered in a tasty gravy that was not too thick, and the cheese curd that slowly melted over the bowl.

And to finish a slice of sublime lemon meringue pie with whipped cream and freeze dried raspberries. I can’t wait to get back and try the matzo ball chicken soup and a few cocktails one evening. Thanks Al and team!

Federal Delicatessen, Federal St, Auckland no bookings but open all day.