Lauraine Jacobs

Food Writer and Author of Delicious Books

Restaurants

30 April 2010

PORTLAND OREGON

With only a few days and all those amazing food carts to try, I still managed to get to a few restaurants. Here are my picks.

  • Castagna: The current hot ticket in town for cutting edge food. Simple surroundings and yet Matthew Lightner’s almost jewel-like seasonal food is delicious, thoughtful and at times almost intellectually challenging. The dessert, which was a frozen rhubarb crumble had layers and layers of taste and texture. See pic above.

  • Nostrana: Cathy Whims is Portland’s queen of the kitchen. Passionate about fresh farm produce and a champion of the Slow Food movement, she cooks simple Italian fare with unusual and forages ingredients. Nominated as Best Chef in the Pacific NW, her food is a must if you only eat one meal in Portland.

  • Le Pigeon: Sit at the bar or eat at large communal tables in this comfortable and cosy neighbourhood restaurant on the east side. Young friendly staff. Where else would you see the chef so confident he was wearing the tee shirt from another restaurant? Best dishes were the carpaccio of duck, pork trotters, a terrific burger and the frozen foie gras éclairs.

  • Metrovino: In the Pearl district, a sharp wine bar with superb antipasto prepared to order. The asparagus soup with fresh crab cakes was so rich and delicious I needed no main course. Superb selection of local Oregon and international wines including Dog Point sav blanc.

  • Heathman Hotel: This historic hotel on Broadway in the centre of town is almost central to the Portland food scene. At lunch over the 14 years I have visited Portland there have always been crowds enjoying themselves here, everyday. Philippe Boulot has reigned over the kitchen forever and still produces fresh interesting modern fare. Don’t miss having a late night drink in the lounge; there’s live music of the easy listening style and a roaring fire.

  • Nel Centro: Set in the courtyard of a very cool, modern hotel, this is a good choice when you feel the need for something fresh, contemporary and interesting, or some good comfort food. Great salads and sandwiches at lunchtime.

  • Andina: Another great choice in the Pearl district for Peruvian specialties. It’s large, rowdy with a great selection of fresh spicy food, and of course the ubiquitous Pisco Sour that is a must with this cuisine.

  • And if you're in the Willamette Valley do not miss Nick's Diner for some amazing Italian food. His pork stuffed capelletti in brodo and his house-made salume were heaven. And so was the Rose of Pinot from Eyrie Vineyards that accompanied my meal.