Lauraine Jacobs

Food Writer and Author of Delicious Books

Restaurants

20 April 2010

SAN FRANCISCO

If you only have two days here are some treats. Piemontese (Italian), Moroccan, Peruvian and fresh seasonal modern American cooking. Take your choice.

  • Barbacco Eno Trattoria 220 California St, SF ph 415 955 1980 Sharp cooking from the Piedmont region of Italy inspires the kitchen here. Perfect for lunch, for an array of dishes can be shared. We loved the beet salad with tangy citrus notes that really uplifted the leaves, (see spring salad above) a tasting plate of intriguing spreads to top grilled bruschetta, and the Calabrian nduja, a spreadable salami that seems to be the new hot item on any modern Italian menu in the Bay. A good selection of Italian wines by the glass too. The big brother restaurant Perbacco is next door for more sophisticated serious dining.

  • Aziza 5800 Geary Blvd SF ph 415 752 2222 It’s worth the long cab ride to indulge in the modern take on Moroccan cuisine at cosy, almost romantic, Aziza. Beautifully spiced, flavoursome dishes and an authentic b’stilla, which manages somehow to combine sweet and savoury in every bite of this flaky chicken pie. But the real treat is the cocktail list. My fennel pollen, seeds, lime and vodka may sound a little unusual but it was light, refreshing and truly wonderful. A highly original neighbourhood restaurant.

  • La Mar. Pier 1.5, The Embacadero, SF, ph 415 397 8880 Begin with a Pisco Sour at the bar of this large waterfront Peruvian restaurant and then into the large airy dining room to order the tasting plate of cebiche, (fresh raw fish in tangy sauces) followed by the taster of causas (lovely combinations of toppings on Peruvian potatoes - see photo above.) Then dare to order a tasting plate of empandas (little pies with different spicy fillings). The Pisco Sour is so good we had to have a third one back at the bar before we left!

  • Flour + Water 2401 Harrison St, SF ph 415 826 7000 Luckily the queue and the hour long wait did not put us off, for the spring fresh menu here in this small neighbourhood place was stunning. Three of us shared three antipasti salads made with the freshest of spring produce; and there was no doubt it has all been picked on the day. Think ramps, asparagus, spring radish and carrot, sea beans and green almonds. Then a superb pizza topped with young leek, torpedo onions, green garlic pesto, upland cress and taleggio, and to finish roasted pork leg, belly and loin with parsley root puree, asparagus and baby carrots. Heaven! Don’t miss it.