2 April 2010

COCO'S CANTINA

376 Karangahape Rd, Newton, Auckland ph 09 300 7582

It’s been a long time since any restaurateur captured the magic that was created in the early days of the Metropole in Parnell. Back in the nineties the late Rick Lewisham, and then Simon Woolley got it right with a fabulous blend of lively bar and interesting affordable food. Now Renee Coulter has set up exactly that in K Rd. A long lively bar dominates the space, where crowds can enjoy some eclectic wines and cocktails while waiting for a table. Coco’s Cantina is fun, it’s jumping, crowded with stars and pretenders, and there’s no show of seeing your grandmother there as she wouldn’t hear a word in all that din. Plenty of tables outside for the smokers too.

The food is hearty and tasty, but not refined or styled. I predict the new trend in food will be like this: the ‘style’ is created in the flavours and tastes, rather than titsy over-tortured disparate elements that turn up on the plate in the so called better restaurants. Hallelujah for that. Go with a couple of friends, share some of the delicious starters like the tender squid, the amazing arancini (risotto balls) or the best bruschetta in town (ours starred with goat cheese, beetroot with a hint of orange.) And then tuck in to the hearty mains that may be some of the best value food around. The veal cotoletta (but not on the bone) was juicy and succulent, grilled chicken is a constant star, and the fish came generously piled on a heap of vegetable accompaniments. Leave room for the truly yummy puddings.

Open from 5pm Tues to Sat.