20 March 2011
HOT MELBOURNE RESTAURANTS
Sometimes I wished I lived in Melbourne. Only for the markets and the restaurants, as the weather is always strange, and getting about, once you’re out of the city centre, seems like mindless driving through endless brick and tile flat suburbs where eucalyptus trees provide the only scenery. But the culinary scene is hot. There’s always a new place opening, and the huge and diverse population means that the flavours of ethnically diverse cuisines are on offer whatever your budget. Here are a few new and old recommendations.
PM24, 24 Russell St, City T613 9207 7424 Phillippe Mouchel, who originally came to Australia to cook Paul Bocuse’s food, presents stylishly modern Aussie food that’s seriously rooted in French classic cooking. His use of contemporary and fasionable ingredients such as yuzu, swimmer crab, organic chook and ocean trout is amazing.
Momo, 23 Collins St, City T613 9659 0660 The ultimate Middle-eastern food served up by Greg Malouf in a seriously sophisticated dining room. Expect to be awakened by stunning use of spice and order anything with quail, lamb or fish. Desserts not to be missed.
Cutler & Co, 55 Gertrude St, Fitzroy T613 9419 4888 Superbly elegant dressing of an old industrial workshop in trendy Fitzroy sets the scene for Andrew McConnell’s breathtakingly tasty and modish food. I loved my portion of sweet suckling pig, the edgy salads and veggies, and perfect fish.
Cumulus, 45 Flinders Lane, City T613 9650 1445 Not quite a restaurant, but more than a café, this tiny inner city place is a haven for amazing comfort food at breakfast, lunch and dinner. Don’t miss the fresh oysters and look out for soups. The velvety, comforting chicken soup with ginger rescued and restored my health. Another gem from Andrew McConnell.
Movida Aqui, 500 Bourke St, City T613 9663 3038 It’s always been obligatory to squeeze yourself into Movida on a trip to Melbourne for Frank Camora’s amazing Spanish tapas. But now you can eat them, and bigger dishes in a spacy, light filled environment in the third Movida to open. There’s a charcoal fuelled fire-pit (whole roasted fish), perfect paella and everything Spanish you ever wished for.
Merchant, 495 Collins St, City T613 9614 7688 A major production from one of the darlings of the Melbourne scene, Guy Grossi. In a tribute to his mother’s city, Venezia, the décor is colourful and modern and there’s an enormous menu of almost casual food that you will want to return and return to. Polenta four ways, tons of pasta, and heaps of tiny and more substantial treats to indulge in.
The Atlantic, Crown Casino Complex, South Riverbank, T613 9698 8888 So often you’re told “you should have been here yesterday” but for me I left Melbourne one day too early for the opening of The Atlantic. So all I can say it is going to be my first stop next visit, for Donovan Cooke’s (he of the famed Est Est ten years back) fishy menu in the drop dead designer interior which I did get a sneaky peek at. Full of promise!
PIC: The Atlantic interior