24 September 2015

SICILY

I am constantly asked about Sicily as it is a hot spot to visit. I went there a few years ago with the fabulous Faith Willinger and we found these places...I am reposting them here and although this is not a current list Sicily is one of those places where nothing changes much and it all just gets even better. So here goes. Please note this was written just after I went there.

Sicily is touted as the “new Tuscany” for tourists. The island is complex; mountainous countryside with ancient hill top towns, a plethora of well preserved and restored Roman ruins, some stunning resort beaches and most importantly a cuisine that is rich and unique, developed around the magnificent Mediterranean seafood, and from fertile gardens that produce much of Italy’s vegetables, wine and olive oils. I ate fantastic food, visited historical sites dating back thousands of years and enjoyed friendly hospitality. But there was a dark side too, the legacy of years of Mafia dominance, with some of the ugliest cities I have ever visited with rubbish and dirt strewn around highways, towns and suburbs. The secret to Sicily is to go well prepared, planning ahead for both accommodation and meals.

Not to be missed:

• Catania

Sicily’s second largest city has a major airport, Roman ruins, the colourful Mercato della Pescheria (fish market) and many Baroque palazzos, museums and churches. Eat at the humble Antica Marina on the edge of the fish market for superb fish, and join the crowds at breakfast for coffee and pastries and cannoli on-the-run at Salvia in the town’s main street. Pasticceria Salvia, via Etnea 302, ph 095 322 335 www.savia.it Antica Marina, via Pardo 29, 95100, ph 095 348 197

• Taormina

A wonderful ancient hill top town to explore, high on the slopes of Mt Etna. Take the cable car from Mazzaro to explore the narrow streets and enjoy lunch with a view. Stay at Hotel Caparena below the town on the Mediterranean coast with its own beach. www.gaishotels.com Eat dinner at Ristorante La Capinera overlooking the coast, has superb food and wine. Via Nazionale, 177, Taormina ph 0942 626 247 www.ristorantelacapinera.com

• Caffe Sicilia

Touted as the best pastry shop in Italy, this casual café in the beautiful Baroque town of Noto, serves the cakes, pastries and freshly made granitas of Corrado Assenza, a magician in the kitchen. Try the almond granite with a dollop of coffee granita for possibly the best breakfast treat on earth. Corso Vittoria Emanuele, Noto, ph 0931 835013. Closed Mondays.

• Modica

One of many World Heritage sites in the South, the hilltop town has a four star luxury hotel, Palazzo Failla with a cutting edge restaurant, La Gazza Ladre where chef Accursio Craparro cooks modern food, and the quirky Japanese sommelier oversees a splendid wine list. Don’t miss walking down at dusk to the main street through the town’s many alley ways to view the lights. Palazzo Failla, Via Blandini 5, Modica ph 0932 941 059 www.palazzofailla.it

• La Madia

Owner Pino Cuttaia’s superb food in this humble Licata restaurant is modern, clever and pays homage to Sicily’s finest produce. Matthew Fort, co-presenter with Tom Parker Bowles of television show Market Kitchen called it possibly the finest meal of his life, and I’d agree. Corso Filippo Re Capriata, 22, 92027 Licata Ph. (0922) 77 14 43 www.ristorantelamadia.it

• Azienda Agricola Mandranova

Perfectly positioned for visiting the ancient Roman ruins at Agrigento and not far from Licata (see La Madia above), this beautifully landscaped olive farm is run by elegant owners/hosts Silvio, who cooks delicious farmhouse dinners and Giuseppe, who oversees the estate and conducts farm tours.
SS15. Palma Montechiaro, ph 0393 986 2169 www.mandranova.it

• Ristorante Majore

A pork lover’s heaven. Hidden in the medieval alleys of Chiaramonte Gulfi, high in the hills, Majore has been serving six course meals of delicious fresh and cured pork specialities since 1896. Not for the faint-hearted eater. Via Martiri Ungheresi, 12 Chiaramonte Gulfi ph 0932 928019 www.majore.it

• Selinunte

One of the most striking Mediterranean archaeological sites is partially restored and can be explored, with or without guides. Book for lunch at La Pineta, a casual seafood restaurant for simple fresh fish and shellfish that is literally on the sandy beach nearby. www.lapinetaristoranteselinunte.it

• Castelbuono

A mountain top town, well worth the two hour winding drive from Palermo to eat at the tiny Nangalarunni Restaurant and feast on local cuisine, every imaginable mushroom, and fine wines. Visit the town’s main square at dusk, sit in the centre with a drink, listen to the music from the men’s clubs and you will feel you transported to a film set. Nangalarunni, via Delle Confraternite, Castelbuono ph 0921 671 428

• Sicilian Wine

Sicily has both ancient and modern vineyards throughout the countryside, producing excellent red wines. I loved the wines from Cos in Vittoria, where maturation takes place wine in earthernware amphora, and the nearby recently established Occhipinti wines made by two clever young sisters. And I’d return in a heart beat for one of Sicily’s finest wines, the rich red Rosso del Conte, from Tasca D’Almerita at Regaleali. Stunning.