16 December 2014

THE UPPER MOUTERE

Munching on freshly picked sweet strawberries, sipping fruity ciders made from locally grown apples, dipping crusty bread into sweet golden olive oil, exploring a unique wild mushroom farm and tasting some of New Zealand’s best pinot noir and chardonnay under the shade of leafy green trees overlooking the vines. Sound idyllic? It was.

A visit to the Moutere Valley, about half an hour’s drive from the city of sunny Nelson had me so entranced I wanted to stay there forever.

We don’t have to live in our major towns or cities to feast on fine fare and enjoy the company of creative and productive people. I discovered a wonderful sense of community, one where everyone with goodies to offer has banded together to form the Moutere Artisans Trail. There‘s much to see and taste, enhanced by several studios displaying classy art, all in a tiny region you could almost cover with a picnic rug.

The area is defined by the Moutere Highway running in a loop from the Richmond Plains back down to rejoin the coastal highway, and up the peaceful valley along Neudorf Road. The area is steeped in history as the township was settled in 1843 by German immigrants who called the new township they built Sarau. Renamed Upper Moutere in the First World War, the township boasts New Zealand’s oldest pub local pub, Moutere Inn, which has operated on the same site in some of the original building for more than 150 years. It still has a real village feel.

In the main street, local cook Joanne Costar presides over her store in the Old Post Office to provide locals with freshly baked goodies, amazing freshly made jams and preserves made on site and all manner of locally artisan produce and craft. Several wineries, some providing snacks and meals, have been established in the fertile soils of valleys and hills around the quaint village, joining the artists who have been attracted to live and work in an area that has tranquillity and amazing clear light.

Over Labour Weekend each year the Moutere Artisans throw open their doors with a special event and the valley is almost overrun with visitors. The good news is that most of the artisans are open for visits year round.

There’s something truly delicious about tasting food, wine and cider with the people who made them, right there on the land where they were grown. Once their stories passion are truly understood, a deep connection is made to the land and its produce.

EAT: * Moutere Inn, Moutere Village; Delicious pub lunches in an historic wooden building * Moutere Gold, The Old Post Office Moutere Village; Coffee, superb preserves, freshly baked goodies and a range of deli products from the region. * Cafés in wineries at Kahurangi, Woollaston, and Moutere Hills - see below.

ART: * Bartlett & Gold Gallery; Whimsical and colourful pottery platters, jugs and colourful garden sculpture * Icon Gallery and Sculpture Park; Eclectic array of sculpture and art set in extensive gardens and a series of dedicated galleries * Michael MacMillan, Sculptor & Country Homeware; Stunning brick country barn with sculpture and a well selected bits and pieces. (B&B neudorfhall.co.nz) * Anna Barnett Pottery, Deepdale Rd; Ceramic jewellery, crazy teapots and more

WINERIES: Tastings and sales of locally grown wine, some accompanied by food

• Neudorf Vineyards, Neudorf Rd; Consistently rated one of New Zealand’s best, Tim and Judy Finn’s winery is the one that firmly put the Upper Moutere region on the wine map. Tasting only in stunning surroundings.
• Kahurangi Estate, Sunrise Rd; Wood-fired pizzas, coffee and selected imported wines.
• Woollaston at Mahana, 243 Old Coach Road; A classy seasonal local menu by chef Jason Innes, spectacular views, wine tasting with art and sculpture. The Loft at Woollaston provides luxury accommodation.
• Himmelsfeld Vineyard, 100 Gardner Valley Rd; Charming rural vineyard specialising in aged wines.
• Moutere Hills Vineyard, 42 Eggers Rd; Café serving lunches, salads and coffee overlooks a rustic landscape. Join the locals at their Friday night bar.
• Harakeke Farm; Wine tastings at The Old Post Office.

PRODUCERS (all Neudorf Rd) * Moutere Strawberries and Blackcurrants; Gate sales in season. * Neudorf Mushrooms; A variety of outdoor grown exotic mushrooms in the autumn, sales and day long workshops by arrangement. * Neudorf Olives; Tastings and sales of olive oil, lemon infused, and dukkah. * Peckham’s Cider; A range of excellent ciders made from 6000 cider apple trees. Don’t miss the local fruit flavoured ciders.