16 October 2012

MATSUTAKE & DUCK

The picture tells a story. 39000 Yen for 6-7 wild matsutake mushrooms equates to about $600. Ouch. These are the first of the season and I spotted them in the Nishiki market in Kyoto.

We'd had some as part of a kaiseki meal, served in a clear broth the night before. The soup was wildly savoury and delicate at the same time with a touch of lime to push the flavours to the forefront. Yum. Perfect seasonal eating in Japan...that’s what food is all about here.

It was a superb meal, and at the conclusion, after the rice course had been served, I presented my card to chef Ikeda of the Kyokabutoya restaurant. On the reverse side of my card I have a photo of my duck, beetroot and honeyed walnut salad. The chef became extremely animated.

It seems he loves duck more than anything and so even though we were 'complete' as they say when describing that very satisfied feeling, he produced a magnificent vacuum packed duck breast from the refrigerator. It was about twice as large as any I have seen in New Zealand, and amazingly meaty.

He cut three neat slices from it, fired up the grill again and quickly seared it for us. He then cut each slice into two, served with a little sweet sauce and we were in heaven. I never believed a business card could have such effect!