16 December 2010
A TASTE OF NOMA (ALMOST).
Vaughan Mabee started his culinary journey in the kitchens of Cin Cin on Quay, in the historic Auckland Ferry Building. From that start (a place where many young Kiwi chefs have begun) he has risen to the top, just like cream, to cook most recently at the restaurant currently rated Number One in the world’s list of Top Restaurants, Noma, in Copenhagen.
Vaughan's early CV lists his head chef position at the ridiculously young age of 21 at the now disappeared Praxis in Auckland where he experimented with unique New Zealand ingredients mixed up with classic European cuisine. That didn't last long, so he found a position at Killarney St on Auckland's North Shore before heading off to the USA.
Near San Diego, the ritzy La Valencia Hotel stands in a prime position overlooking the La Jolla coastline. In this lovely Californian Mission-style hotel Vaughan became Executive Chef of the flagship restaurant, The Sky Room. This is where he admits he finally found his true passion for modern cooking and produced meals that wowed the locals from far and wide.
His next career step, to Europe, truly took him near the top, for he won a position heading up the "workshop" for Martin Berasategui's eponymous and cutting edge restaurant in San Sebastien in northern Spain. Vaughan was now in the thick of the experimental and avant garde cooking that has seen Spain lead the charge of modern food. He worked on developing menu ideas and recipes for Berasategui, who consistently scores top ratings in Michelin, the World’s Top 50, and everything that matters in the restaurant world.
From there it was short European hop to Noma. Rene Redzepi has had much written about him and has been instrumental in taking a new turn with his very modern food. He's moved from the experimental, almost- scientific style of food, to ensuring his diners experience the true tastes of fresh pristine produce. What appears simple may be quite complex but is always very delicious. A perfect place for a Kiwi with Vaughan's experience and enthusiasm to work. Lucky man!
Few New Zealanders will be lucky enough to ever taste this style of cuisine, so I was really privileged to be invited to lunch on the Island Passage, a small luxury catamaran cruiser. Vaughan is currently working the southern summer in the ship’s galley, pampering up to twenty guests on cruises in the South Pacific and around the New Zealand Coast this season. He cooked a four course light luncheon for five of us that was superbly styled, utterly delicious and a showcase of everything he loves about his home country.
To start, tiny pieces of pristinely fresh kingfish were served, topped with “scales” which proved to be the most delicately sliced grapes, and garnished with baby watercress, a wafer made from sago that had been cooked, then deep fried and was a playful take on Chinese-style prawn crackers. To finish the dish Vaughan had made a jus of mussel juices which had amazing depth of flavour.
My favourite course was the main, two nuggets of butter poached flaky fresh hapuku nestling into a bed of caviar lentils and cauliflower puree, topped with charcoal dust and bathed in the most divine seafood bisque style sauce that had everyone literally licking their plates. (See the pic above.)For dessert Vaughan had delved into his childhood memories of New Zealand fruit and created a trio of ices; frozen tamarillo granita, feijoa sorbet and olive oil ice cream. This was all food that was light, intriguing and left me wanting another spoonful or two each course. Fabulous!
As I walked off the little ship, I pondered just why so many of our chefs go overseas, (well that’s obvious when they can get experience like Vaughan has had) but then so few return. I can think of many top rated New Zealand born and trained chefs who now reside and cook at the top of their game in Sydney, London, Melbourne, New York, Bali and many more places. Our loss is the world’s gain.
Pic: Vaughan Mabee in the galley of the Island Passage.